SE*Ullrtass's Norwegian Forest Cats

In Sweden since 2013


             by Amy Möller

              Final Project, Pawpeds G2 Course


Becoming a breeder is not a small undertaking yet is one of the most rewarding occupations a person can find in life To take an active part in nature’s life cycle by not only taking an active role in delivering new life, watching that new life grow but also be responsible for deciding the future of the breed you breed and raise through active selection in the mating process is one of the most rewarding things you can do. But along with deep fulfillment also comes the desire and the responsibility. First to LEARN. To be informed in many areas of breeding and second, to gain EXPERIENCE to cope in a calm manner when unforeseen things arise. It is my goal when writing this pamphlet to give the reader an outline when not only navigating the ins and outs of the Swedish laws that breeders must follow when climbing the learning curve to becoming a certified breeder regarding breeding/mating plans and raising kittens, marketing and selling your litters successfully, and secondly to share the experience I have gained through in trial and error to become a breeder in Sweden while successfully gaining titles at exhibitions. Both of these two endeavors, though they seem as two separate pursuits, are actually inseparably intertwined together in gaining experience leading to a successful breeder career.

There are various rules that you must follow to breeding successfully in Sweden. The head ruling body in Sweden is called SVERAK (an abbreviation which stands for Sweden Raskattklubbars Association, SVERAK the light of day!) and has been in existence since 1946 existing as a cat club to interested breeders in Sweden. SVERAK is the head ruling body for all the 40 clubs located in Sweden which are independent yet follow SVERAK’s governing rules. The clubs are sovereign, which means that they are responsible for their own finances and have their own club rules. Nevertheless, they follow SVERAKs, indirectly, the FIFe statutes and regulations**

**Quoted from the SVERAK website -

In May 19, 1955, the name SVERAK became in existence when there was a need to cooperation between the two main cat clubs that existed in Sweden at the time.  In 1981 the focus of SVERAK was changed to include domestic cats to be allowed to be exhibited and the word "Raskattklubbar" was changed to "Cat Clubs" at the 1981 annual meeting.  SVERAK has set out guidelines for all breeders to follow or face penalties which can include loss of your breeding abilities.

The knowledge I have gained through studying the rules set through SVERAK and FIFe have provided me a basis to build upon in my future endeavors. To arm yourself with these tools to prepare yourself to be a good breeder is where we start. Because there are no easy short cuts and there are many things to know if you are to become equipped to handle a variety of situations, knowing the rules will put you firmly on the road to success .For not only the health of your kittens is at stake but also reputation and ultimately your livelihood. 




Consider your goals below (as outlined and quoted from the SVERAK website) which are relevant when you are deciding if you would like to become a serious breeder.

  • Which is the goal of the breeding?
  • Is knowledge of applicable laws and regulations regarding the keeping of cats, breeding, consumer rights and the like?
  • Available knowledge (or energy and time) to learn about breeding and breeding, genetics and breed any problems?
  • There is sufficient knowledge to determine whether a cat is suitable for breeding?
  • If you have the opportunity, time and finances to have breeding?
  • Is there enough room in the home to be able to separate the bearing females from any other cats?
  • There is sufficient knowledge to be able to guide the kitten buyers?

Whether it is a female cat or tomcat you should begin to consider taking the help of an experienced breeder or your cat club before you begin or continue on with cat breeding. They can provide valuable help and suggestions along the way. They are also a great resource for you if you get ‘stuck’ at any point and can help you in the right direction or make an introduction to another member who has the same breed as you.

I would like to also point out that it is no small undertaking when making this decision to begin to seriously breed. Many people BELIEVE it will be fun to have a litter of cats and then realize it costs a lot and is more responsibility than what they thought it would be so I advise to think carefully first.

Secondly, I also advise before you begin that you contact another person with sufficient knowledge who lives in your area who may be able to MENTOR you during the first couple of years as you learn your way around breeding. As there are so many unexpected situations and things that can arise that you may not be prepared to face on your own or even have experience to deal with, an experienced breeder whom you trust that is living relatively close by can really help you when you need it. More on this subject later.

Thirdly, I advise owning pedigreed cats for a year or two and getting experience by attending a few shows before you jump into breeding. This way you can see a lot of cats, get to know what you like, see what everyone else is doing and the type of cats they are breeding. But on the other hand as breeding is not only fun, it holds some responsibility as you are producing the next generation of your breed and the standard of cats that will come from the cats YOU choose to breed. One needs to know many things such as not only what they like as far as physical traits of a cat, but also: reading pedigrees, helping in the birthing process, screening prospective buyers and successfully choosing the right homes for kittens, understanding illness and what/when to screen for these to insure the health of your cats, marketing, the rules of your country and so on. It is a lot to know.  I speak from personal experience here as moving to Sweden, owning one pedigreed cat at first and then jumping into having a litter in a foreign country where I hardly spoke the language when I hadn’t even shown my cat yet…it was quite a learning curve. But it can be fun too, and exciting…if you know what rules to follow. In this pamphlet I will not only share some of SVERAK’s rules but also breeding basics that I have learned in my short time as a breeder in hopes that it sheds light on this vast and interesting pursuit.




In order to breed legally or show your cat in Sweden at an exhibition (or Utställning as we call it) you must first belong to a cat club in Sweden and pay yearly dues. All cat clubs follow the rules set up by Sverak. In Sweden the law states that a person can have up to one litter without being licensed- That is without having what is called a Stamtavla or Cattery name. This is wise to get this immediately if you think you are ready to become a cattery and start to breed. You will do this through our national organization called SVERAK in Sweden ( The name you choose can be anything you like, up to 35 letters, but may not contain more than 15 letters or characters. This will be then approved by SVERAK and will cost you 1500 SEK. After you are approved you will be sent a certificate with your issued cattery name.



When you begin breeding in Sweden it is important to familiarize yourself with the laws of SVERAK regarding pedigreed and housecats (cats without pedigrees).  As stated before, SVERAK is our governing organization for which our cat clubs in Sweden refer to and follow for all cat related matters being rules and relgulations, legal matters, exhibitions, breeding, pedigrees (called Stamtavla) and a variety of other related things. SVERAK takes its rules seriously therefore you cannot legally breed a purebred cat, that is a pedigreed cat, without understanding these basic rules and following them. So here we begin...with some BASIC rules found on the SVERAK website although there is more detailed information available to be found. 

Please refer to http.//

Rules and Regulations in Sweden for housing cats*briefly stated* by SVERAK law which is NATIONAL Law - (All the laws below apply to our club and to Sweden our country.)

  1. Cat with a pedigree or house cat is issued proof from SVERAK and pedigree is registered in SVERAK which is the stud book online. Cats that do not have a pedigree are called domestic cats.
  2. Insurance is bought for the cat mostly through AGRIA, our company here in Sweden
  3. Cat must have supervision 2 times per day. If traveling, your cattery must have a person who can provide clean food, water and fresh air, plus veterinarian telephone numbers in case of emergency. If a cat is young, sick or injured then by law a cat giver must tend to the cat more than 2 times per day by Sweden’s Board of Regulations.
  4. Cats must be be I.D chipped and vaccinated yearly. Must be vaccinated against cat plague. Cat flu and feline herpes. ID chip must be checked to see if it can be read. Kittens receive their vaccinations at 8 and 12 weeks and must not leave to their new homes until 12 weeks.
  5. House must be free of poisonous plants and other hazardous objects. Be aware of certain foods to keep away from the cat that will cause toxicity as well such as raisins and grapes. Each cat must have ample space and to sit or roam. Fresh food and water be provided and toys. Litter box must be provided. Breeding studs will be provided a separate area with at least 6 kvm.
  6. The law states in Sweden one is not to use a cat for breeding if the cat does not feel well or if there is a risk the offspring will inherit a disease. No animal that is aggressive can be considered for breeding.
  1. Swedish law states keeping 1o cats or more older than 1 year requires permission,  keeping 3 litters or more, selling cats from three or more litters per year of homebred cats, storing or feeding 4 or more cats and also engaging in professional breeding activities
  2. If both female and tomcat belonging to the same, FiFe approved or tentatively approved, race / target breed needed no application for authorization for mating - unless the application for authorization be prior to mating
  3. You may not use deaf cats for breeding, cats with umbilical cords defects, cats with more than 2 secarean sections, ANY cats with physical defects including 6 toes (Polydactyl), Cats with bent tails.
  1. Other prohibitions on Breeding:  It is not allowed to use a cat for breeding if it feels bad of it and if there is a risk that the offspring inherit diseases or disabilities. Animals that are excessively fearful or aggressive and animals that lack the ability to reproduce in a natural way may not be used for breeding.

**Quoted from the SVERAK website -



The word Ethics is defined as a system of moral principles or the ethics of a culture. In every country there has been set up a system/guidelines for a person who is registered as a Breeder to follow. In Sweden our governing board that enforces these rules is called SVERAK. I have listed our breeding ethics below as they are taken quite seriously.

3.1 Cat breeding should be conducted in such a way that it promotes the offspring's health and wellbeing.

3.2 Any member who leases his cat for breeding should be familiar with the breed existing health programs, and the breed standard, the registration rules and relevant provisions of animal welfare legislation.

3.3 SVERAK breeders may breed only use cats

3.3.1 FiFe approved for registration

3.3.2 Are registered in SVERAKs or other recognized cat organization studbook

3.2.3 is of the same race or syskonras

3.3.4 Are both in good physical and mental condition.

3.4 SVERAK breeders will in breeding avoid mating combination based on available information increases the risk of serious illness / disability of the offspring.

3.5 A SVERAK breeders should the owner of breeders follow FIFe and SVERAKs health programs. For races requiring veterinary medical / genetic findings should be valid proof of this is for breeding taxes before mating opportunity.

3.6 SVERAK breeders should not use cat breeding as the DNA test proves to be the bearer of double predisposition for severe disease with established recessive inheritance. Cat proves to be the bearer of simple predisposition for severe disease with established recessive inheritance may be used in breeding, but only in combination with genetic / hereditary declared free of infection cat and provided this does not conflict with existing health programs.

3.7 In order to register the offspring may be made ​​for male and female cats who have not registered offspring after him in SVERAK earlier, should the certificate required in the breeding sent to SVERAK. On the certificate must be the cat's full name and registration number to be applied so that the visibility of the cat in question.
Testicular certificate must not be issued when tomcat is six months old.

3.8 A SVERAK breeders should avoid to mate closely related cats as the father with daughter, mother to son or siblings with each other.

3.9 A SVERAK breeders should work for a broad breeding stock and not select too hard and too early.

**Quoted directly from the SVERAK site




By this time you have already purchased a pedigreed cat or cats and you are thinking of buying more to begin your cattery. When thinking about purchasing more cats there are a few factors to consider. How many cats will you like to have in your cattery, where are you going to buy your cats from, and finally have you studied the pedigrees beforehand. When planning to purchase cats for your cattery you must take in account the space you live in, namely how much room you have, the time each day you are able to set aside to caring, feeding and dedicating TIME to each cat. And how many cats are you going to have keeping in mind you will be replacing one every fifth year or so.


  1. From friends or referrals that live in your city
  2. Facebook picture you fall in love with
  3. From Cat Exhibition (breeders bring their kittens)
  4. Importing from another country


You will not always buy all your cats from within your own country when building your cattery. Often times the search will lead to another country in search of a completely unrelated pedigree or you may simply fall in love with the look of a completely different cat from another country. Mostly people will buy a cat from another country in order to bring new life blood into their cattery and create new lines. Because of this I have included an important section on Importing cats into your country of choice. As an example I have chosen importing into EU countries). Below are listed some helpful links.


View this site for resources and material regarding what you need to know about traveling with pets into Sweden.   and seek ‘Swedish Board of Agriculture’


If you decide to purchase a kitten from another country you will have to take steps to insure the kitten can successfully travel to you and then after being accepted into your country receive a new pedigree from your country. I have listed the steps to transfer a pedigree to a FIFe pedigree which Sweden uses.

*Note: Before attending a Cat Exhibition you MUST present the FIFe pedigree. No cat coming in from another country will be admitted without the new FIFe pedigree. Allow a few weeks for this transfer of pedigree to take place.

  1. TO obtain a FIFe pedigree you must be a member in an affiliated club in Sweden
  2. Make an application for transfer of the cat from another Union (SVERAK FORM 1003) and pay 500 SEK transferable to SVERAK
  3. Send the original with copies of the receipt by snail mail to the SVERAK office/keep copies for yourself (very important)
  4. Enclosed with the TRANSFER are: Copy of the pedigree, copy of the transfer/ownership certificate, copy of Passport/ID Tag and Rabies Certificate (Norway has other restrictions), Copies of all stamped Customs Documentation for all countries residing outside of EU countries
  5. Original Studbook must be signed by the Studbook Keeper and require full details: Name, EMS Code, Birthdate and Registration ( and up to 4 generations of this registration)
  6. Whatever unions Cat desired to be transferred from attached documents proving ownership of the cat; for example, transfers, transfer agreement, receipt or similar document.
  7. SVERAK will issue you your new pedigree and return copies of your old pedigree to you at the same time through the mail.

**Know the rules of the other country you are importing from. You could have a cat be turned down at the airport gate if it does not have the correct paperwork and stamps in order. Remember that kittens must never leave your home before 12 weeks old and preferably 14 weeks.**You must check the laws of each country you export to when seeing the earliest age a kitten can come into that country and the needed immunizations. Each country has their own laws and regulations.






If you live in an apartment your space will be somewhat limited in your aspirations. However do not be deterred. You can still accomplish a lot. A 3 room apartment, for instance, you can have 3 cats – for example we have 1 male and 2 females comfortably living. A few rules to follow: you NEED to have a place for the fertile male and a place for queen with her kittens. Now think… with 2 females having litters and 1 male possibly fertile it’s going to get crowded if each queen has 5 -6 kittens- Maybe you spread the births out but nature may dictate this! However you may have the ability to build an outdoor space such as on a balcony with netting to provide more space. If you live in a house with a garden you will be able to grow faster with more cats but take it easy and go slow. Remember you can accumulate cats fast and you will have to think about replacing some as they get old with new blood. A house can provide you much more needed space to get started such as a kitten room, a nice glassed in back porch for your cats to relax in or you may choose to build an outdoor cat house with a cat run. Some people also dedicate their entire yard to their cats adding electrical fencing to make it safe. A word of caution. Many beginners buy lots of cats fast because they have the space, are enthusiastic and want to plunge right in. This is strongly discouraged. Even if you have the space and the money to make it a kingdom for your cats GO SLOW. Many people have gone before you and made mistakes by buying cats too fast. Better to get help reading the pedigrees and do some planning. Once you purchase it’s hard to go back. You may buy a lot of cats before you are experienced enough to know what you really want or what type of a breeder you want to be: casual or fulltime. In addition, you close yourself off to many possibilities if you go quickly as these are living beings and it’s hard to go backward once you buy.



Each home will need ample cat trees, beds (washable at 60 degrees c) and blankets, scratching posts, litter boxes (one per cat) with cat sand (we use Ever Clean for Multiple cats), running water cat bowls (metal or ceramic…do not use plastic as they develop fungus on them and are difficult to clean and un-hygienic),toys, treats, grooming products and medical products for the cattery. Plus birthing things (see below section in Birthing). Each room must be adequately provided for in your home for each cat to have his own space for running and solitude. A good vacuum cleaner designed to pick up cat hair is recommended, not a regular vacuum cleaner as they will not do the job properly. If you live in an apartment you can put up an outdoor screen on a balcony. If you live in house then perhaps you can build a cat run that is more elaborate. A house that posesses space for each cat  will be a happy house. Cats are kind of like humans... respect them and they might respect you. lol.



  • Cat screens/Cat Run supplies:
  • Cat Water bowls. Running electric type: (we don’t suggest using plastic):
  • Ceramic:
  • Stainless Steel: Drink well 360 Stainless Steel Water fountain
  • Vacuum Cleaner with best ratings picking up cat hair for 2016: Miele’s C3 Cat and Dog/ Dyson’s DC65 Animal Upright/ Shark Navigator NV365E Lift-Away
  • Cat Trees:                                                                                                   



Breeders clubs offer discounts on food and litter. Some include Proplan, Royal Canin, Brit, Orijen, Arcana and Everclean for Cat Sand. There are websites that will honor your breeder number if you are a certified registered breeder with a Cattery Name or Stamtavla (as we refer to it in Sweden) when you buy food, litter and supplies. As your monthly cost will rise depending upon the number of cats you have in your cattery it is a wise idea of subscribe.   (most pet food stores will give you a punch card to get a discount)



When growing your cattery, selling kittens, mating and everything else it is important to be organized. Here are some tools that I use.

  1. Binder for all papers. I labeled each tab them as such: Litters; Tab for each Cat with copies of all their important information such as Pedigree, testing, History, tests etc.; Cat Insurance; Sverak Info; Cattery Name Paperwork; Magazine Subscription Paperwork; Breeders card Information for each company; Food Receipts (Yearly) To create my budget spreadsheets; Vet Bills and receipts; Misc. Files
  2. Binder to hold all Cat Magazine Subscriptions
  3. Website For my Cattery
  4. Facebook page for my Cattery
  5. Laptop organization separate folders for each Cat and Litter (in chronological order of kitten’s age), Cat contracts, My website information, Contacts, Selling information, Research, etc.., Budgets in excel spreadsheets for yearly cost of cattery/litter expenses



Some breeders know what their goals are right from the start. Others may need to define and redefine their goals. Everyone who breeds will need to become familiar with the many rules, regulations of having a cattery in your country, how to grow your cattery successfully and the many other things that go into breeding. To have a mentor to help you navigate through your first years of breeding is an invaluable asset and can make the difference between building confidence while gaining experience or learning life lessons through trial and error.

A mentor by definition is a person that has experience in breeding, showing, raising litters, and buying cats among other things that can help you when you need invaluable support and who agrees to help you in some capacity. You can choose a friend or a colleague but the first rule of thumb is to choose someone that you trust and that whose philosophy aligns with your philosophy on cats/you have the same goals and focus.

A person can have more than one mentor to help them in their journey. For instance one person that knows a lot about breeding and pedigrees and another that can help with showing and grooming. Be careful not to choose too many people for that will confuse a new comer. You want to learn a lot yet be able to develop your own style and philosophy. After all in the end to become a breeder is very much a solo act and it can also be a competitive undertaking between catteries.

When choosing to be mentored I looked for a compassionate, capable and knowledgeable person that had many years of experience. Because this person became my friend first before my mentor, we had already built our relationship on our love of cats and our friendship naturally grew out of that. I did not know that she had won titles high up in the cattery world and had a hell of a lot of experience. I just felt very comfortable around her and knew I could trust her. She is one of those people you just want to be around. It was only later when I began to become more serious about showing my cats did I realize her experience and knowledge. She is the most honest and straightforward person I have ever met and will always seek the best in me even when it’s inconvenient to hear. These are most valuable qualities to me that a mentor possesses, but on top of this she is my dear friend. My friend had stopped showing her cats long ago and since she stepped back from the cat world and had no pressure on her to achieve anything or to prove anything anymore (she had gotten all the success and proved everything to anyone beyond all doubt with her breeding), she was able to give me an unbiased view of the cat world in a realistic way. I value her opinion because she is straightforward, honest and tough but as my friend I love her. These are qualities to be a successful breeder you need. So I pose this question: Do you want someone to praise you… or do you want to become better. If you want to become better then get serious and look for a mentor who will help you achieve your goals and has the same focus as you. You may not find it in one person. But if you find both a mentor and a true friend in the same person then you are very lucky. It’s not often you find that.

Because you will seldom find a mentor with everything you are searching for you may It’s OK not to know things. Truth is that they already know you don’t know anyway and will teach you. Learn to keep a secret. Remember this: when you find your mentors learn to listen and learn to keep a secret. Learn to be trusted and don’t tell your plans to the world no matter how great you think they are. You worked hard for this and others may not see things the same as you, have the same philosophy or ethics. Keep your future plans to yourself. They are only plans until you carry them out. Remember that.




Every cat you own needs a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes of your time each day. You need to add on top of this cleaning the litter boxes twice per day (1 per cat unless you have XL boxes – then 2 per cat), feeding and grooming. During show season add bathing (for each cat who will be shown) and an entire weekend of travel and showing 12 – 14 shows per year for instance.



When breeding we must think ahead in terms of years, not just in the present tense as this will help you to plan for a cattery that will not only be more successful but also  more tailored to what you are realistically able to handle and do successfully and comfortably in the here and now. Anyone can have a litter but to be a breeder successfully requires patience, a good eye, the ability to plan ahead and see not in terms of THIS YEAR but in terms of DOWN THE LINE a few years, and of course to be a business person at times able to separate your head from your heart. One who begins their journey with their feet firmly on the ground understanding their limitations of what they are able to realistically work at within your (space available x cats x time per day) without losing site of their long term goals can have a greater chance of becoming successful. Of course learning pedigrees, studying, meeting other breeders/networking, and going to exhibitions to see many cats helps as well. Keep an open mind. Be willing to listen.



It’s very important to study a pedigree of a cat before you decide to purchase and make the cat part of your cattery. The cat you purchase will be spending a long time with you so think carefully after falling in love but before purchasing. The first thing do (after falling in love with the picture!) is to look at is how closely the cat is related with the others in your cattery and then think of the cats you have, the sexes and how the cat will fit in with your long range plan. Breeding successfully is more about longer range plans than spur of the moment truthfully. If you have only girls in your cattery, for instance,  will you want to purchase another girl with a closely related pedigree or will you prefer an altogether different pedigree that you can produce kittens with using the same male (if you choose to buy a male/ borrow a male you really like for both of your girls). Then how about colors? Do you have something in mind regarding that? For the Norwegian Forest Cat I was told color shouldn’t be so interesting a fact in your choice but I can tell you I fall head over heels at seeing a nice NFO ns 23 and all rationale goes out the door!

When reading the pedigree we look at the 4th or even the 5th generation if we are looking at mating what we own to what we may buy. For example if we already own a stud and are buying a female. The opposite applies for studs. We can see through this method of testing if there will be a 0% at the 4th generation which is ideal. This tells us that there is no inbreeding between the two pedigrees. Some people will look at the 5th generation as well.

In Sweden we have two ways to search pedigrees or the STAMTAVLA as we call it: through FINDUS and through Pawpeds. Here are both addresses for the sites.

  1.   (go to database)

Findus is nice because if a cat is used more than once in the pedigree the places where it has been mated will show in a different color. Other things you will be able to see in the pedigree are the health of a cat (H under the cat’s name), EMS code, Color, title and so on. You will also be able to search and test mating between cats.

NOTE: The H is very important to read (under the cat’s name in the pedigree) as it can give you important information regarding the health of the cat; HCM screening results, GSDIV and PKdef info. As well, it is wise to GO BACK IN THE PEDIGREE to the cat’s Great Sire/Dam or further and look at their Health records to make sure your future is secure when buying a cat. Of course you can always ask a breeder for all health records of the ancestors before purchasing and a good breeder should have these and be able to provide those to you no questions asked. This is your future after all. Think safety and think healthy.



A big part of being a responsible breeder is testing your cats when necessary as required for your breed. Being responsible means…

  1. Yearly vaccinations performed for every cat in your cattery
  2. doing special tests if needed for every cat that you import from another breeder if they live in another country or Export to other countries on demand from the other party who asks
  3. Rabies vaccinations if needed when traveling to other countries who require it
  4. HCM heart scans for NFO Males at 1,3, 5, and 8 years/ HCM scans for breeding NFO females at 2, 3, 5 and 8 years – approx.. 1200 SEK per scan per cat
  5. GSDIV testing for breeding females BEFORE meeting the male and requiring the prospective male to also be tested.
  6. PKdef and GSDIV free cats through parents and grandparents
  7. 8 and 12 weeks vaccinations for kittens before leaving home plus dewormed twice





There are a few ways to choose a mate when looking for a partner for your female or male. You can surely choose to breed with your friend’s cat. That’s one way. Certainly it’s the easiest at times though you may not get the best match. Some people choose to breed with their friends based on distance. Quite simply their friend lives close. Or even they feel an obligation to be liked. This is a mistake. But in the case of a new breeder sometimes distance can work to your advantage when choosing a mate especially if the other person has more experience and can offer you advice and help with your litter for any questions that arise.

Another way is to study pedigrees and find a match that will match the pedigree by not being related within the generations closely (0% at 4 generations) and then also looking at the cat’s picture to see if you like the physical quality the cat possesses. This means when matching your cat with another you will see what qualities your cat is lacking (such as ears too small, weak chin, too short tail and so on) and try to find another cat that possesses those qualities that will make up for at least some of those qualities lacking that you would like to improve upon by using the other mate. This is the idea of breeding: to improve upon your breed with each generation. We keep this in mind when choosing potential mates. We cannot get everything we hope for with each breeding we do. Therefore we must decide what we are aiming for and what is possible to realistically achieve. We do this by studying each cat’s pedigree and its history, its parents, grandparents and great grandparents, possibly even father. Not only by the pedigree information but also by pictures and health history. This will give us a big clue as to what is possible to achieve within the mates we potential have chosen to breed together. There are traits that may not show now within the cat but can come out within the litter therefore it is not only sizing up what we see between two cats but looking at the history, making sure the health of both cats is up to par, and of course the pedigree does not carry inbreeding. I suggest reading as much you can on genetics but also contact and learn as much as you can about cats you are interested in. You may not know the history or pedigrees behind a cat and be surprised to find out what you at first thought was a perfect match may have something altogether you didn’t know about. Truthfully, sometimes not all breeders want to share non positive health results and post them on the PAWPEDS database. A sticky subject I know. But if you are willing to research and ask around it will save you time and trouble down the line.

The third way to find a suitable match is by visiting as many shows as possible and viewing potential mates, meeting their owners and understanding their philosophy of breeding/if you get along with the breeder and if it is someone who feel you could work with in the future. Remember you are forming a relationship and that is an important part of breeding. Not just producing a beautiful cat. Important to remember.

Finally, you can always visit magazine sites and Facebook sites to look for breeding males as people do post their males with pictures of them. They will interview you and see if your girl is a fit.

Color Calculator for Cats (based on choosing 2 mates to see the outcome):





With a few cats in your cattery you must decide when you are going to breed your cats (what time of year) and if you will be having more than one litter at once. Of course cats many times dictate to us humans when THEY will go into heat and it’s not always when we choose it. For this sake breeders can choose to use birth control with their female cat (given approximately once per week in winter and once every five days in Spring/Summer) that will stop the heat cycle until you are ready to have a litter. In Sweden we use Perlutex 5 mg. pill for cats (also given for dogs). Some say to remove the pill two weeks before you are ready for the cat to go into heat and then she will start to call.

Other factors when planning your litters are space available in your home/how many can you handle having at once (if you are a fairly inexperienced breeder) and financial considerations as kittens can be expensive until you sell them or IF you don’t sell. Another thing to think when having kittens is the seasons. In nature cats breed naturally twice a year: Spring when it’s getting lighter out and Fall before it gets very dark out. Cats’ cycle follow this and so I like to follow this naturally. Since I have two females I personally prefer to breed one in the spring and one in the fall, not both at the same time.

If you have a male stud at home you can use what is called a Superlorin chip to stop his hormones. It’s basically surgical castration that will prevent the male from having a desire to breed for up to 1 ½ years.  There are people that say to breed the male first before you implant the Superlorin to make sure he is fertile and can breed because there is a chance he may not recover from the Superlorin Chip. As well, you are advised NOT to implant the male before 10 months old.



Before the female meets the male both breeders should agree to test their cats for GSDIV and present the results by email or in person. This insures healthy cats and secures your cattery and all future kittens you are breeding to be healthy. As well it is a good idea to vaccinate the Queen soon before breeding to insure her kittens will be have a dose of her vaccination through her colostrum that she gives to her kittens.

** A female cat who need caesarean more than once may not be used for breeding.




Up until this year 2016, mating agreements were common in Sweden and all people followed them weather they were written or by word of mouth. However this year they were banned by Sverak and now Breeders are not allowed to put restrictions going forward on any kittens sold in the future. This means a breeder cannot restrict you to where you sell your kittens and to who or how many. However, many breeders still count on word of mouth contracts to insure you follow their restrictions. Because the cat community has historical been a small community built on relationships, people have grown to fear breaking these restrictive contracts for fear of angry backlash from sometimes unreasonable breeders. Some people have gone so far to not breed with a person for fear of backlash from dominant breeders who unfairly intimidate others. Sverak has tried to take measures to prevent this behavior in hopes of curbing this behavior and so this new rule was instated to prevent this. Not only this but to allow good cats to be able to stay in their country of origin and keep breeding…namely males. If we must keep sending males outside our country to breed because of restrictions imposed by breeders in Sweden on the males, then we lessen the gene pool of good available breeding males here in Sweden. I say Breeder beware before you enter into a relationship with another person if you are borrowing their cat specifically their Stud. Ask if there are any PREVIOUS restrictions from before this law was put forth.  Also, take the time to get to know the person you are entering in this relationship with. In the end only YOU decide who you are willing to breed with and who you aren’t.



There are specific times you are banned from breeding with your cat. The specific rules that state in SVERAK guidelines for when you must not breed with your cat are listed below. We follow these rules for the safety of the cat and to insure continued health for the next generations of the breeding pool. Regarding my breed the Norwegian Forest Cat we also perform various tests throughout the breeding cats life which I have refered to in the section called LINKS FOR TESTING.

Cats may not be used in the breeding if:

  • they have an illness or disability that can inherit
  • they have or probably have the recessive gene in the double set of sickness
  • they have or are likely to have simple recessive gene for the disease unless the pairing is done with the individual who is found free of the corresponding genes
  • Mating combination on the basis of available information increases the risk of illness or disability in the offspring.

*Prohibition breeding frightened and aggressive animals - Cats that are excessively fearful or unjustifiably aggressive may not be used for breeding. The reason is that animals do not thrive on such behavior and that there is a risk that the behavior is transmitted to the kitten

*Prohibition of breeding with animals that lack the ability to reproduce naturally - A female cat who cannot give birth naturally should not be used for breeding. The risk is that the predisposition for difficult deliveries are passed on to the next generation. It may be that the veterinarian must take cesarean if the fetus is wrong, but it should not become a habit to do so. Therefore, it is not permissible to let a female cat who forgives showered with cesarean twice continue to mate.

**Quoted directly from SVERAK website page on breeding


  • Homozygous mutated cats should not be used for breeding. However, these cats generally die before becoming sexually mature and consequently don't pose any problem for selection as they are automatically removed from reproduction.
  • Heterozygous carrier cats can be used for breeding, but they should then only be bred to partners who do not carry the mutation, as proven by gene testing. Kittens from such a litter should be tested before sold as future breeding cats. Ideally only homozygous negative kittens should be used for breeding, but exceptions can be made as long as the buyer of the kitten is well aware of the problem and will continue to follow these recommendations.
  • All buyers of carrier kittens and kittens of unknown status from combinations where both parents are not negative should be informed about the disease, the fact that a parent is a carrier, and the risks of using the kitten for breeding. Heterozygous carriers will never get any symptoms, so one might think it is irrelevant information for a pet buyer. However, since it isn't uncommon that pet buyers later get the idea to have a litter from their cat, and they might then go ahead without contacting the breeder of the cat, it is important that also pet buyers fully understand the nature of the disease and the situation with their kitten.
  • The aim should be to have eliminated all carrier cats from breeding by the year 2015.

Taken directly from the Pawpeds website



When it’s time to visit and the female is in heat she will start to call. She’ll raise her tail and rub against furniture and let you know loudly she’s ready, rolling around a great deal. This can last up to a week. It’s time to bring her to visit the male. When you take her there to see him she will stay over a few nights in a private place away with only the stud, away from other cats. Got Bring some food for her and maybe a blanket with her smell on it. She will need a few days to get comfortable accepting him if it’s her first time but she eventually will. The owner of the stud will keep an eye out and call you when they are sure the mating has been completed. Then you can pick her up and note the day she pregnant. A cat is normally pregnant between 65-69 days. If she goes longer than 69 days you will need to call the veterinarian for help.





  • Birthing Box
  • Wool blankets  for bottom of birth box/extra towels and clean pillow cases to line the birthing box with on top of waterproof sheeting for after birth/change top sheet every day
  • Blunt edged scissors and disposable umbilical clamps
  • KMR or other substitute kitten milk/incase Queen is unable to feed her kittens   **use at 37-38 degrees c given to the kitten

**See this Website for sources

  • Colostrum - Brands include Astorin, Farm Food #1, and KMR
  • Feeding bottles with silicone nipples or pointed breeding suckers for newborns/enough for 6 kittens.  
  • Cotton pads – for cleaning kittens after feeding (in case the queen is unavailable)
  • Microwavable Heating pad/ multiple pads
  • 150 W Heat lamp/ for the birthing box to keep the kittens as warm temperature
  • Birthing pen for kittens as they grow/can be attached to birthing box. See these sources
  • Small litterbox(s)
  • Soft round bed enable fit Queen with her kittens for nursing
  • Kitten scale for weighing kittens
  • Digital Thermometer
  • Pen and Notebook – To record birth time/weights/Sex/EMS code
  • Veterinarian emergency phone numbers


  • Prepare for the Birth – Set up the kitten box in a quiet space with mama
  • Set aside time for the Queen. Watch for the signs especially for the last 24 hours before the birth
  • Have any telephone numbers you need nearby such as veterinarian or experienced friends/mentor
  • Prepare food and have reading material so you can devote time to your Queen as you will be waiting
  • Call and cancel appointments or other scheduling when the birth is near. YOU MUST NEVER LEAVE THE MOTHER ON HER OWN WHEN HER TIME TO DELIVER COMES.



Keep the litter box and food/water near her. She will not want to leave her kittens and if these are not near her she may eat and drink less. Fluids are important to her as they will provide the milk for her kittens. Provide her with raw egg yolk *not the white, in 40% crème to keep her strength up, minced meat that has been frozen for at least 3 days before thaw, fresh boiled chicken, low fat fish boiled in lots of water and kitten food. Some queens also love kitten milk replacement such as KMR. Keep her calm and happy with at least as much stress as possible so she can tend to her kittens for the first three weeks while they are nursing and sleeping.



Normally the Queen will feed and look after her kittens herself. If the Queen for any reason is unable to feed her kittens be prepared to feed them every 2 hours the first week round the clock. Times will change after the first week. Please refer to the feeding schedule for this information. You must also make the kittens urinate and defecate after each and every feeding. Also maintain kitten’s body temperature of between 25c to 30c in the first two weeks, lowered to 20c when kitten is 6 weeks old.

  • First week:             2-6 ml every second hour day and night
  • Second week:        6-8 ml every 2nd hour daytime/every 4th hour nighttime
  • Third week:            8-10 ml every second hour during day/once during night
  • Fourth week:          Feed every 3rd hour/feed at night only when necessary
  • Fifth week:              Feed every 4th hour and supplement with what kitten is eating/no night feeding

After approximately 3 weeks the kittens begin to eat solid food. You can introduce raw food, kitten mouse or other food with small bites. Kittens will continue to nurse. We recommend Science Diet Kitten Mouse, Britt Kitten wet food in packets, Orijen Kat and Kitten mix and Voxen raw. For our Queen we supplemented her diet of kitten food with raw egg yellow in 40% cream for extra vitamins and nutrition. We fed her freely during her feeding time of her kittens and wanted to minimize her stress as much as possible.

We feed our kittens using plates, not bowls. It is easier for them to feed together and get at the food. Have a good supply handy.



You should weigh the kittens once a day, always around the same time, during the first two-three weeks, to keep an eye on their weight gain. Normally they should gain some weight each day, how much does really vary a lot between kittens and between days. But if the weight has not increased for two days, you have reason to worry. Keep a notebook and record the weights each day at the same time, preferably first thing in the morning. Buy a scale before the kittens arrive *digital. Here is a site to purchase animal scales

Usually they gain about 10-15 grams pro day the first two weeks. A rule of thumb is that they should have doubled their birth weight when they are seven days old. If one kitten does not gain weight one day an eye on it. Don’t worry, Weight will fluctuate until solid food is introduced. You can introduce Kitten replacement formula if kitten is in danger of losing weight and becomes dehydrated.





At 8 weeks is the first set of vaccinations. At 12 weeks is the 2nd set of vaccinations. Plus deworming twice before the kitten goes to any other home. Usually the Veterinarian will give you a package deal on the total price for 8 and 12 week shots combined if you tell them you have a litter as opposed to one kitten and are a breeder. 10% is normal discount. In Sweden we use Nobivac Tricat and Intervet.



You will need to introduce kitten replacement formula if you see a kitten is dehydrated. The kitten will be shaking and look cold. It’s important you get fluid into the kitten as soon as possible as it can be in danger. Feed every 2 hours until the shaking stops. Other signs of sickness include:

  • If the kitten cries a lot and does not suckle the mama
  • If the kitten lays alone from the heap – they need each other for warmth and cannot sustain body heat independently
  • If the kitten in body is not firm but limp
  • If the mucus membranes of the kitten are dark or pale as opposed to pink in color





  1. Pre-Sales Agreement ( Also called a ‘Booking Contract’)
  2. Sales Contract
  3. Registering and Pedigree of the litter
  4. Insurance
  5. Deciding pricing: Pets (In Country/Export), Breeding Females (In Country/Export), Breeding Males (In Country/Export)
  6. Deposit/Transfer of Funds – How will you receive the money (which forms of payment will you accept)
  7. Rabies Shots/Passport/Health Certificate
  8. Keeping Organized: Putting all papers in Binder: Pedigree, Parent/Grandparent history and Pedigree, Vaccinations/Deworming, Rabies, Passport, Health Certificate, Receipts of payments, Any travel papers needed for import to the country of sales (if necessary), Intro letter to your cattery with your telephone number/email/website
  9. Traveling Arrangements: Travel cage (Airplane safe if traveling to another country), If you will travel to buyer or not/travel service allowable? /Only pick up from face to face meeting?
  10. Marketing and Pictures/Website






When the kittens are approximately 4 weeks of age most breeders will require you to pay for the kittens. Either per kitten/per kitten up to a certain number/or as a certain price for all. Have this agreed between you and the Studs owner BEFORE the kittens are born to avoid confusion after. Sometimes you will be able to come to an agreement to pay for the kittens after you sell them.


  1. Receive Signed Copy of Kitten Registration From Breeder of Stud

Breeder sends you signed copy of registration papers for each kitten (SVERAK FORM 2013-04). Keep one copy for yourself to file.


  • Your Queen’s Health Declare
  • Copy of Queen’s Pedigree (The 2nd side)
  • Registering paper

The secretary at your club will check you are a member and make sure all paperwork is correct, then forward to SVERAK.


  • (SVERAK Form 1001) - Submit paperwork to Sverak in Sweden that includes all names of your litter with sex, EMS code, date of birth and your Cattery names. You must include EVERY kitten in the litter living meaning the litter must be recorded simultaneously... You will not be able to submit this form until the other party whose cat you borrowed has signed their copy. This does not happen until you have paid them their fee. Make sure to keep copies of everything you do. Send 2 copies to your cat club after paying a fee per kitten to SVERAK along with a copy of your receipt of payment to SVERAK and the cat club forwards one copy to Sverak along with a copy of your receipt stating you paid the fee per pedigree. Fee is 300 SEK each if the kittens are less than 3 months old. Fee is 600 SEK each if the kittens are more than 3 months old. If you are a certified SVERAK breeder at time of litter each pedigree cost is 200 SEK. Also make copies for your records. File all these in your binder. **PLEASE NOTE. You must spell your names for each cat correctly on your forms. The name of a cat CANNOT be changed once it is notated by SVERAK.



In Sweden you must add each kitten to your current pet insurance as Dolafel. It protects each kitten in your litter for up to 3 years and 3 months against hidden defects. The insurance must have been signed between 7 (SEVEN) and 12 (TWELVE) weeks of age, and the kitten inspected 7 (SEVEN) days before delivery. If you purchase this insurance it will protect you the Breeder against any costs associated with concealed defects of a kitten. In Sweden our company is called AGRIA. Agria Hidden Dolafel also replaces veterinary care and life insurance up to 20,000 SEK.A hidden defect is defined as a disease or defect that has begun to develop before inspection and delivery, but has not shown symptoms or was otherwise known. Examples of hidden defects in cats are malformations of internal organs or congenital deafness.

Latent defects insurance consists of two parts. Life insurance and veterinary care. The insurance amount is equal to the selling price. To Agria hidden defects insurance to apply, a kitten sold to be inspected by a veterinarian within SEVEN DAYS prior to delivery to the new owner.**

If you sell the cat to a private person (not a breeder), it means that the Consumer (warranties) apply. This means that you are responsible for genetic defects incurred up until three years after the sale.

**Quoted directly from the AGRIA website




It is not enough to have healthy, beautiful kittens. You should know how to get the word out properly that you have them available for sale. There are a few successful tips that I have learned in the past year that have helped me enormously. What I have learned, if you follow, will save you time in the long run and bring you some nice exposure.


  • FACEBOOK personal page or FACEBOOK
  • CATTERY PAGE. Link the Cattery page to your website for further exposure. Publish weekly pictures on the Facebook Cattery page
  • INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT – Include your cattery website address on here. Include a subtitle which states you are a breeder and which is your breed. Link this account to your website. Make it easy for people to find and connect with you. Post pictures of your kitties each week up until 14 weeks. Get them excited. Get followers.
  • CATTERY WEBSITE– Link this to your Facebook account for more exposure. To build an easy website I suggest looking online for or other website that is already easy to build and you can pay per year. You will need to first purchase a DOMAIN NAME then link it to your website. That way people can find you. Using your cattery name is always easiest.
  • WEEKLY PICTURES – from newborn to age 14 weeks with updates every week. Post on Facebook and Instagram. Provide a link for easy access for potential buyers to contact you. You can reach your current audience this way and reach a wider audience as well.
  • CAT EXHIBITIONS - Place a sign above your cage announcing your litter that is for sale. Show the litter if you able to at 4 months to get exposure for your future litters. You want people to get to know you.



The reason pictures are so very important now days are that Facebook/internet/Instagram etc. has made viewing and buying cats an easier process. Most people can decide in the first 30 seconds if they actually like the cat and will continue further on exploring. Of course the serious breeder is different and will explore the pedigree, parent’s pictures and so on. Unless you are a well-known breeder and have load of litters behind your name and can reserve the litter when they are very young as you have a great reputation built up behind you, most people will not start reserving a kitten from you until after 5 weeks old. It can make you nervous since you raised them and spent money to do so. Now you want to SELL them of course but want good homes too. The answer for you is to be able to use pictures as your vehicle to market the kittens. Be able to:

  • Learn to take a good picture without the use of flash
  • Take at least 4 pictures of each kitten showing different angles, Front of Face, Each side of profile, Left and right; Side of body, And ¾ angle shot
  • Update with new pictures every week. Show the progression of each kitten
  • Update Facebook with pictures every week.
  • Use 2 people when taking pictures as kittens move around a lot
  • Use a neutral background UNDER the kitten and BEHIND such as the wall (avoid busy backgrounds)
  • Keep your pictures in focus. Take the picture standing back from a distance and ‘crop’ later in editing mode if you have to.
  • Edit your photos. Lighten them up, especially on the face and body to show how the kitten really looks and crop them. Choose only the best to represent you.
  • Avoid softening or blurring the picture in editing mode. You want a REAL representation of the kitten… you want to avoid selling a kitten who does not really look like the picture!



As a first step it’s a good idea (and can save time in the screening process) if you list on your website a series of questions as a form a potential interested buyer can submit to you. You can start the initial screening process this way. You may have requests for your kittens from other countries other than your own and this gives you and potential owners a first introduction. It is a good idea to include as requirement to type in their email address after submission if they want you to receive their information. You can add this in when creating the form. This will weed out the people who are just curious and those who are sincerely interested. As well you can form your questions to get as much detailed information as you like. Of course this is ONLY the initial screening process. But you may reach a wider selection of people and breeders who are in different time zones as you. Remember at the bottom to always include your telephone number as a direct way to reach you. I have included some various questions below however you can personalize this list.





*Email/Phone/Best way to get in touch

*Which litter are you interested in?

*Male or Female?

*How many pets do you own/type/breed?

*Are you a first time Owner?

*Are You a Breeder or is the cat for a companion?

*Will your pets live inside?

*If your pets are outside do you have a fenced in area/closed in area

*Who will look after your Pets when you are on vacation?

*Did you read our policy and understand our philosophy?

*For Breeders: You are required to contact us if you have to surrender the animal you purchase from us FOR ANY REASON... have you read our policy regarding this and agree to it before purchasing a pet from us?



Available - The kitten is fully available for sale

Option - There has been shown some interest but no deposit has been given as of yet

On Hold - A deposit has been given on the kitten and the potential buyer has the option to buy the kitten. No other person can adopt now.

Booked – The kitten has been fully paid for with deposit and final payment.

Under Observation - The kitten is being observed by the breeder for potential breeding and showing capabilities and needs more time to develop. The kitten is not available now but may become available in the future.


Here is Sample from a Website regarding selling kittens that is can be used when selling kittens that gives people an idea of what they can expect from you



  • Must be at least 14 weeks old.
  • Vaccinated against cat pest and cat runny nose dvs. 2 ggr.
  • ID Marked with chip
  • Insured against hidden defects for 3 years in Agria
  • Registered with Sverak/FIFe and has a Stamtavla/Pedigree
  • Veterinary inspected with a maximum of 7 days old health certificate
  • Housetrained, children and animal friendly
  • Early life and social-life in a family setting.
  • For PETS/not breeding kittens...will be castrated/spay before coming to new household.


  • Support with your kitten during its growth and life. You can always email or call with questions. We are here for you!
  • A cat starter package including all necessary paper work and other things.
  • Starter kit with food for the kitten, wet and dry, snacks and toys. We are proudly part of the Orijen, Britt and Proplan Breeder programs.


  • PLEASE NOTE: Buyer must either pay for seller's travel expenses round trip or come to Sweden to pick up the kitten in person. We will not send a kitten through cargo. You may arrange for a travel service and send us receipts and full disclosure of the arrangements in advance plus payment in full before we will release a kitten,  however we must have met you first in person at our home. We will work with each buyer on an individual basis to insure a smooth adoption into your country of choice however please be advised that in the end it is the buyers responsibility to research, understand and inform us of the the rules and ALL paperwork needed for proper import into the country of destination to insure a flawless transaction at time of delivery.


We reserve the right to not sell a kitten for any reason if we feel that it will not be a good fit for a home.





You as the breeder have the right to cancel any sale that you feel uncomfortable with for any reason. You do not have to defend yourself or give a reason. Saying I don’t feel comfortable is a good enough reason. You do have a right to inform your potential buyer if they have given you a deposit of your plans and to refund their money. Breeders have different policies on refunds so please refer to your countries rules on this. You also should never be bullied or pressed into selling a kitten if you feel in any way uncomfortable doing so. Remember the kitten will have a long life to live and you are responsible for that life. In SVERAK the rule is if the Buyer cancels after the deposit has been given, 30% of total price of kitten is forfeited to Seller. If Seller cancels for any reason after deposit has been given, 100% of deposit is returned to Buyer.



You will decide how many kittens you will sell to breeders vs. pet owners after a time of consideration and putting certain kittens under observation to see if they are high enough quality for breeding or showing. The rest can be sold as pets and neutered/spayed before leaving your home to be adopted to new owners. It is nice to make a questionnaire before you sell kittens to find out each potential buyer’s needs in an animal (do they want to breed or show, or are they looking for a companion) and some other basic things. This will make your life easier when it comes to interviewing people and save you time as you will already have some questions ready.

It is your job to understand your buyer, their needs and the kitten that will best fit their household. Therefore it is ok to ask a lot of questions to the buyer. 



Most breeders feel responsible for not selling inferior kittens to breeding. What most people do not think about is the fact that is not very responsible to sell the best kittens as pets, either. To sell the best kittens as pets (not breeding) will sabotage the possibilities of progress as much as selling inferior cats for breeding.**

**Quoted directed from Pawpeds G2 Course, Section 8.6

Take your time to evaluate each kitten. Before you promise to sell a kitten take at least 5 weeks to see how it develops. Some kittens take more time. Mediocre kittens can turn into good breeding or showing cats. Sometimes it can take 3 months to properly evaluate and respond to know if you are going to sell a kitten for breeding, or keep a kitten as part of your cattery to use in your own breeding program. Do not be pressured by others into making a decision you could regret. You are in control. When you are ready to make a decision the people that really are interested will still be around and willing to wait if they are serious enough.



  • Meet potential owners at kittens’ age of 8 weeks but no sooner. They will be ready at this time.
  • Ask for references
  • Get to know the owners personally
  • See how they interact with the kittens
  • Have additional questions ready
  • Can they meet the financial requirements Breeding/Showing or as Pet owner





  • Stud fee for mating – 1000 SEK
  • Stud Fee for 5 kittens at 4 weeks old – 5 x 1000 ea. = 5000 SEK
  • Pedigree fee x 5 (Certified SVERAK Breeder) 5 x 200 = 1000 SEK
  • Vaccinations/8 and 12 week x 5 kittens – 600 x 5 = 3000 SEK
  • Deworming = 125 x 5 = 625 SEK
  • Health Certificate x 5   150 x 5 = 900 SEK  (SVERAK Form 3010)
  • Passports (if needed/ Buyer pays this fee. Reimbursement at time of delivery of kitten or final payment)
  • Rabies (For kittens traveling to countries requiring/Reimbursement at time of delivery of kitten or final payment)
  • Kitten package (included for every kitten – includes food, toys, blanket, folder with pedigree, history, CD, all paperwork and instructions for new kittens, My phone number and email)

TOTAL   = 11,525 SEK or 1422 dollars plus 3 months food and litter (2700 SEK approx.) = 11,525 + 2700 = 14,225 SEK or 1757 dollars



For example:

You have 5 kittens.

  • You sell 2 as pets in Sweden at 8500 SEK each (25,500 SEK).
  • You sell 1 as a breeding male in Sweden at 9500 SEK
  • You sell 1 breeding female to another country outside Sweden and your fee is 1200 Euro/11,008 SEK
  • You sell 1 breeding male to another country outside Sweden and your fee is 1600 Euro/14,680

Sales =                                                        60,688

Less fees =                                               (-14,225)

Less Insurance for kittens-3 months        (-   1200)

                                                                    45,263 SEK or 5588 dollars

**approx. 1100 dollars per kitten profit for 5 1/2 months work!

You would need 5 litters per year to make a modest living wage (30,000 dollars). At 8 litters a year you have made 48,000 dollars. But wait. How many cats do you need to make 8 litters per year and how many cats do you need breeding at once to achieve this? Now you must change your status from Casual Breeder to a Business as you have crossed the line on the number of litters allowed by year by law you can claim to not be considered a business (3 per year in Sweden).

Certainly breeding can be considered a labor of love and not a Get rich quick scheme. If you are considering having more than 2 litters per year x 5 to 6 kittens per litter be prepared to expand your space to enable you to keep lots of cats and have more than 1 litter going at a time.



As a breeder it’s up to each of us to decide how we want to breed, how many litters per year and with whom we want to work with. We will learn with each litter we bring into this world and we will grow wise. We will start as a young breeder excited, inexperienced, making mistakes as we go yet seeing the wonder of new life unfold in our hands. We will work tirelessly and do it for the love and when each of the kittens has found their new home we will swear we will take a long break. But then it hits us, the longing, and we’re so ready to do it all over again. What could be better? Yet as time goes by and the rose color glasses come off reality starts to break through and we meet some breeders we like and some we do not want to work with but realize we’re not an island after all and we’re not alone in our venture nor ever will be. For breeding, though it looks like a solo venture, really in truth it often is a team effort as we are constantly building relationships though breeding. I borrow your Stud and then in turn I introduce you to another breeder who has a cat you has a pedigree to match your female’s and so on. We don’t live in a ruby tower and most of us don’t have endless resources to call upon. We need each other to accomplish our goals.

Though we may have different goals in breeding, have different philosophies and even want a different result from our breeding experience in the end, it’s important to treat those we meet on the same path with respect and kindness remembering we share a common interest with each other that’s unique and amazing…the preservation and continuation of a breed. That path, though separate at times, unites us all. It is our common interest of what we share of bringing new life into this world, caring for that new life, being an integral part of selecting the next generation of our breed and hopefully elevating that breed to a higher standard that unites us and we must remember this when times get tough or the rumors fly. Though we all know we know the cat world is a small place where words can make or break you and even a small rumor can light a fire, that very same person whom you don’t agree with one day may become your ally the next. This is my experience. Though cat world has always been referred to as a small place, it has yet grew smaller by the Internet and Facebook bringing us closer together from corners of the world (with names we cannot pronounce) and that we only once dreamt of visiting.  So what once was a big world is a smaller world by access on our computer.    

Yet we have all something to gain from working together, for treating people well, for keeping an open mind and by willing to learn and share our ideas with each other without judgement. We are responsible for this generation of breeding and the next generations to come. It is in our hands.


Amy Möller, SE*Ullrtass’s